Over the years I have seen many new product innovations, many of which are incremental developments of existing systems or products that fail to live up to expectations. I have seen few “game changers”. Truly exciting innovations have been infloor cleaning technology, sophisticated pool automation and automated salt chlorination. I think the Pentair Intelliflo Variable Speed pump belongs in this category. For me installing this pump is a ‘no brainer’. Here’s why:

Energy Efficient =Save $ on Electricity Costs: By using a true variable speed pump with that is programmed to deliver only the water flow that is required for the pool system operation (no excess), electricity savings of up to 90% can be achieved. On my swimming pool this should equate to around $800 per year. As electrical tariffs increase these savings will be even greater.

Quietest Pump Available: It was once said that the best way to have good neighbours was to build a high fence. Second to this is install a quiet pool pump. As keeping the peace is important, the Intelliflo is ideal as most of the time you can barely hear it operating. The exclusive permanent magnet motor has a totally enclosed fan cooled design which when combined with slower running speeds  makes IntelliFlo the quietest pump available.

Better Filtration and Water Quality: The pump is designed to run at lower flow rates for longer hours to help use less power. An advantage of this is that the water is circulating, cleaning, filtering and chlorinating for more time, even though it costs less. This will lead to better water quality and a cleaner, clearer pool.

Long Lasting: The advanced motor produces far less heat and vibration than a traditional induction motor. This means less stress and wear on pump components. It also eases the strain on other equipment. IntelliFlo also features built-in diagnostics that protect it from the most common causes of premature pump failure—loss of prime, overheating, freezing and voltage irregularities. This results in incomparable pump life.

One Pump System: The Intelliflo pump will be driving the filtration, infloor cleaning, solar heating and water features. With a conventional system I would use four pumps to do the same job. This would take up more space in my yard, which I don’t have.

All of this factors and other benefits make it a simple choice for me in relation to what pump I will use. What are your thoughts?

Size: Typically a small pool, the most common sizes we build are 4m x 3m and 5m x 2m, that aside as with all concrete pools the size is flexible. Work out what best fits your area, lifestyle and family. Depths are also important. We find that with small pools a flat bottom is most practical so it does not become steep. A deep pool can be great to jump in and exercise, but not relaxing if you have to tread water all the time. Shallow pools can be good for kids and easy to heat.

A Big Spa?: Your plunge pool can be used all year round as a big spa. An advantage of having a smaller pool is that it can be easier to heat to high temperatures and include all of the features of a conventional spa like jets and bubblers. You can also add swim jets for those who like to exercise.

Seats and Benches: As well as entry steps it can be great to include some large underwater seats or ledges to lay on and relax. These are great when coupled with the spa effects mentioned above.

Heating: Think about when you want to use the pool. If it is all year round you will need a gas heater, if summer only solar is great.

Features: A well designed plunge pool can be enjoyed every day of the year as a water feature. Add water walls, spillways, feature tiling and lighting to provide that relaxing oasis you desire. Don’t be afraid to use bold colours to make a statement.

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Pools to fit spaces: As yards become smaller and houses bigger the space to put a pool is shrinking. This makes us as designers work harder to fit a pool into your space without taking over. Gone is the one size fits all family pool for everyone. We will see lap pools, plunge pools, etc continue to become more popular.

Low maintenance: We all work hard and want to spend what free time we have with our family and friends, not cleaning the pool. Infloor cleaning system are becoming the norm, not a luxury. When combined with automatic fillers and automatic chemical dosing systems with salt chlorination the amount of time you need to spend on the pool is almost non existant.

Energy efficient: As electrical tarriffs increase variable speed pumps will become more popular. Pumps like the Pentair Intelliflo can do the job of four pumps and save up to 50-90% on electrical bills. I predict that in five years time these pumps will become the standard. There are similar savings to be made with gas heaters like the Pentair Mastertemp.

Natural colours: Light pool interior colours in natural tones are very popular. Our most popular interior of the last 12 months is white. When combined with natural paving materials like stone or deck a stunning result can be achieved. These colours tend to be both calming and enticing.

Fun,fun,fun: Pools that are made for fun and enjoyment. Features
including big swimouts and ledges, waterfeatures, negative edges, spas and waterspouts are becoming more popular.

A Pool with a view: Acryllic viewing panels into pools are a great feature on elevated pools or pools with negative edges. This trend has been on the up for some time now with the acryllic technology a better alternative than glass.

Home integration: No longer is the pool placed in the dead corner of the yard. It now tends to be the feature of the backyard. Combined with an outdoor room and entertaining area the pool can be used all year, when not swimming as a water feature and place to relax.

1. Water level: make sure that the pool water level does not drop too low from splashing and evaporation. In most pools the water level should be a minimum of half way up the skimmer box. If the water level gets too low your pump can run dry and burn out.
2. Skimmer basket and deck canisters: it is a good idea to check these daily until you get a feel for how many leaves they get in them. If it is particularly windy check them also. If the baskets get to full water flow will be restricted which may cause lack of filtration and chlorine production. This could make the pool turn green.
3. Chlorine: check the chlorine levels daily when swimming. Ideal chlorine levels are between 2.0ppm-3.0ppm. Low or high chlorine can cause injury to swimmers. If the levels are low you can either shock dose with liquid or powder, or boost with your salt chlorinator. Expect on hot and heavy bather load days to need to add extra at the end of the day.
4. pH: check your pH every few days. If it is high (most likely with a new pool) add acid after swimming is complete for the day. A high pH will make chlorine less effective in the water and can encourage scale to form n your new pool interior.
5. Brush the pool: you don’t need to do this if fully tiled, but  if you have a quartz or pebble render, the more you brush it the better the long term result will be. Quartzon in particular should be brushed daily.
6. Pressure: check the pressure on the filter. f it has risen around 50kpa from start up it needs cleaning. This will be a backwash for a sand filter or hose out for a cartridge.

There are some other things that your builder will have instructed you to do but most of these should be able to wait for when they come back from holidays for a follow up call. Although it sounds like alot of work once you get the hang of it, it should be pretty easy. Most of all don’t forget to have fun and have a great break.

If you do this you will find that there are no hidden costs. What there can often be though is misunderstood contracts. I find that often when customers are signing the pool contract they are so excited about getting the pool they don’t necessarily take in all of the information that they should. Below we provide an overview of the contract price exclusions, explain what they are, how likely and what they can cost. If it is known that these items will be encountered you can ask your builder to include them in the contract at a fixed rate or PC allowance.

a) Survey of the property

This will generally be required when the pool is very close to the boundary to make sure that the pool is built on your property. Most other pool projects do not require this. A site survey would generally cost up to $1000.

b) Town planning permit, council deposits or asset protection fees and any related fees

Town planning is mostly required in Heritage or other Special Building Overlays. Contact the Planning Department at your council for advice. They normally cost around $200-300 for a pool but can take up to 12 weeks. Most projects will require a council bond or asset protection fee. Typically they will be around $1000-1500 and will be repaid when the project is complete if no damage has been done to the footpath, road or other council assets.

c) Clearing, stabilising, timber crossings or other protection to the access pathway.

Builders will assume that you will provide clear access to the property for the purpose of excavation machinery. If any protection or clearing works are required these will generally be charged at an hourly rate plus expenses. Of course you can prepare the site yourself if you would like to save costs.

d) Repair, reinstatement or relocation of reticulation systems, drains, sewer and gas lines, storm water drains, power cables, telephone cables, water pipes and any other service lines in and around the area of the swimming pool or the access pathway which require repair, removal or relocation or which are damaged during performance of the works.

Your builder does not know what is under the ground so the more information you can give them the more carful they can be. Pay particular attention to electrical and gas lines as they could cause harm if struck. For a better idea of what is under the ground you can call Dial before you Dig, consult your house plans and get a sewer and storm water plan from you Local Water Authority and Council. Sometimes the lines will need to be diverted. A plumber or electrician can do this before the project starts or be on standby for the day of excavation. Costs are site specific and excluded.

e) Excavation or removal of any sub surface materials or obstructions requiring equipment such as pneumatic or blasting equipment and or explosives for ripping, cutting or blasting.

This most commonly refers to removing rock in the ground but can include concrete footings or paths. Your builder will assume that the pool can be excavated with a normal bucket. Once the hammer is put on the excavator the rock rate kicks in. This is generally charged on a cubic metre rate. This rate should be found in the provisional sums section of the contract. It is generally charged at around $250 per m3. This can equal $20000 for the average pool if it was to be completely in rock. The best way to deal with rock is if you think there may be some, get a soil test which will allow your builder to include an allowance in the contract. This should help prevent any nasty surprises. If you have access for larger machinery, 20 tonne plus) it can also work out well to put in a day rate for machinery hire, rather than a rock rate. This can save you thousands of dollars.

f) Sealing off, diversion or pumping of any water from the swimming pool excavation other than water falling direct thereon.

Quite often on building sites we find that down pipes and storm water drains are not connected which puts all of the water into the pool. This can damage the pool at excavation stage as well as be dangerous for any small children or animals while the pool is incomplete. Make sure that any excess water is diverted away from the pool. If not your builder will need to take precautions and charge you for this.

g) Shoring up of wet or unstable soil or reinstatement of any cave in of the swimming pool excavation.

This would be one of the most common variations and is caused by wet ground, heavy rains, excess water and poor soil conditions. It costs around $150 per square metre which is around $5000 for the average family pool. A soil test again can help to identify the likelihood of this.

h) Electrical supply, power points or wring of any type.

It is your responsibility to provide the power for the pool. This usually costs between $1000-2000. It can be more in the case of integrating with home automation systems. Your builder should be able to recommend an electrician if you do not have one.

i) Connection of waste line from filter to the sewer, storm water drain or any other outlet required by the Regulatory Authorities, and associated fees.

Sand filters require connection to the sewer for backwashing in most suburban areas which can costs anywhere between $250-$2000 depending upon the complexity. In rural areas this can be done to a reln drain or soaker pit.

Cartridge filters require no such connection, however it can be good practice so that you can lower the water level easily.

j) Any gas or oil plumbing, flue installation or heat shields or any further requirements due to site limitations.

This will be required if you have a gas heater only. A gas line is usually between $2500-4000 depending upon the required pipe size, length of run and difficulty. If the heater is to be installed indoors it will also require a flue and ventilation. This can add another $1500. Once again if you do not have a plumber your builder should be able to recommend one.

k) Reasonable supply of electricity and water required by the builder for construction purposes.

This is simply power for tools and water for cleaning, mixing, etc. On new home sites these services, particularly power may not be available. See if you can run a power lead form the neighbours house or you may need to hire a generator (your builder should be able to do this for you).

l) Sound or weather enclosures for any equipment.

The pool equipment will be installed in the area specified and provided by you, inside or outside. If you require these measures consult with your builder.

m) Temporary or permanent fencing or other requirements that may be imposed by any Regulatory Authority.

This includes safety fencing during and after construction. It is your responsibility to arrange and make sure the fence is adequate. Your builder should be able to recommend a contractor to do this.

n) Removal of rubbish and debris left on the building site other than which has resulted from construction by the builder.

Simply this is other peoples rubbish. The builder should be expected to clean up after themselves but not others.

o) Water to fill the swimming pool and mains water supply and connection to the swimming pool accessories.

Currently pools in Victoria can be filled from the tap providing that a Water Conservation Plan has been approved by the local Water Authority. Connection to automatic fillers must be done by a licensed plumber and usually costs around $250-500 depending upon difficulty.

p) Taking up, replanting and repairing damaged lawns, gardens, driveways or other features on site.

There is generally expected that there will be some degree of make good required at the end of the project. This is often put into the landscapers works at the start.

q) Spreading or levelling of any soil left on the building site pursuant to this contract.

If the soil from excavation is to remain on site it will be generally placed in one pile. If you would like it spread and levelled you will need to specify this. It is often best to put this in the landscape package also.

r) Disposal and handling of soil where excavation is carried out by the owner.

If you dig it, you must also get rid of it.

t) Shoring or retaining walls or other means of stabilisation to ensure stability of overburden excavation and or to protect adjacent buildings.

Excavation when carried out close to structures, pathways, large earth cuts and boundaries can cause potential damage if it undermines any of these. This needs to be carefully considered before commencing the project and any protection works designed by an engineer and installed prior to commencement. This is an area often neglected or misunderstood by inexperienced builders and can cost you thousands in damages and repairs if not done correctly.

u) Piering or other special structural requirements below existing ground level.

If the pool is being constructed in fill or highly reactive ground piering may be required to support the pool. This can be identified with a soil test and should be considered at the engineering stage. Failure to do this can result in pools that move or crack the structure and pipework. Another area neglected and misunderstood by inexperienced builders.

v) Additional works to alter the filter position from that originally agreed.

If you move the filtration location expect to pay more. Even though it may be closer to the pool than the original the builder will have set the pipes up to suit the position and also have to re document.

w) Foundation data and other engineering inspection or reports.

This includes finding out the depths of existing footing on site for the purpose of designing protection works. This also includes soil testing.

x) Architectural or landscaping details or drawings.

Unless specifies most builders are not including design work.

y) The cost of any replacement of equipment which is damaged or stolen from site.

Once the equipment has been installed on site it is your responsibility to make sure it is safe. Include it on your insurance policy if you can.

Although it seems that there are alot of exclusions most of these items can be included or quoted before your project commences. So you dont get any nasty surprises I would recommend that you do the following:

• Make sure you do your home work and get as much information as you can. Get a soil test and copies of all relevant plans to help your builder understand what they are dealing with. If you do not do this they will often default to the contract, some will anyway.
• Use an experienced recommended builder who is an industry member. Don’t assume that the cheapest quote is the best. Only used  a registered builder, if not you assume all of the risk.

This information should be only used as a guide and I would encourage you to consult with your builder to gain a greater understanding of how they relate to your project.

1. Design- We generally find that well designed projects run smoothest. Having proper documentation helps all parties understand what is required, helps generate a quote template and flushes out any design issues upfront. Even if you do not intend to carry out the whole project at once, a staged project plan can minimise future costs.
2. Budget- Most of us have a budget to work to. Before you start the pool have a good understanding of all of the associated costs that are not included in your pool contract. These typically include landscaping, fencing, service provisions, etc. We will dedicate more time to these in a future post. It is a good idea to get these quoted up front. Your pool contractor should be able to give you a list of what is required or even recommend someone to do them. Once you have formulated a budget make sure you allow a 20% buffer.
3. Project Management- Make someone responsible for the whole project. A pool construction project requires co ordination between the pool contractor, designer, landscaper, fencing contractor, electrician and plumber as well as others. If you do not want to be responsible for all of this appoint one of the main contractors. The pool contractor or landscaper can be a good place to start. Expect to pay around 10-20% on top of costs for this type of service. It will save you headaches.
4. Used experienced contractors- Don’t cut costs by using inexperienced or cheap contractors. Although the price may look better it is very difficult for the untrained to assess quality, particularly when it involves structural integrity which cannot be seen. You need to know that the project will stand up in ten years time. Reliability is also a key issue. One contractor can delay the project by months. Get recommendations or ask for referrals where you can.
5. Use contractors with a good reputation and back up- Although most pools come with some type of warranty, many of them are not worth the paper they are written on, including some of the statutory policies. Most of these will only pay out if the builder is dead, missing or insolvent, leaving you to chase the builder. A good longstanding company will value their reputation and make sure you are happy. This is much better protection than a flimsy policy.
6. Order materials early- Try to select pool tiles, paving, coping, Quartzon colours and stone finishes at the start of the project where possible. This will allow them to be ordered early and not cause any delays. Knowing the sizes of these finishes can also help your pool builder size the pool structure correctly to minimise tile cuts.
7. Communicate- Regular communication is the key to a successful project. We recommend site meetings before commencement, on completion of the concrete pool structure, on completion of the interior finishes and on completion of the project. Have all of the relevant parties at these meetings to make sure everyone is on the same page. Follow up with an email confirming key points. Don’t be afraid to point out any areas you are not satisfied with. It is much easier to fix while the pool has no water in it.
8. Allow extra time. Although a typical project should take 3 months, allowing an extra two months will help you avoid any stress caused by material or weather delays.

There are many more factors involved with running a successful concrete swimming pool construction project. However if you plan well, appoint the right people and communicate clearly you will be well on the way.

Please let us know if you have any thoughts on this subject.

1. Find a picture of a pool you like- I find this the best place to start. There are plenty available in magazines and on the internet. Once you find the one you like best ask you pool builder if they can closely match it. Sometimes these photos may be digitally altered and not a true indication of what is on site. That is why it is best to ask your pool builder to match the colour than finding out what the tile is.

2. Don’t get caught up in shades- Sometimes clients agonise between two similar tiles. Don’t worry too much about this as the colour will change constantly depending upon brightness of the sun, reflections off trees and structures, etc. If the pool is to be mostly shaded go with the lighter colour as it will appear darker.

3. Consider the size of the pool and area- In my experience light coloured pools tend to look bigger in smaller areas as they blend in and create an illusion of space. Darker coloured pools tend to have a defined line around them. This is great if you want to create clean lines or a reflection pool look.

4. Consider the surrounds- I generally try to blend the render colour, pool tile, paving and any other finishes. Try to find something that is common between them. If you have earthy surrounding tones try to find a pool colour that will look more natural. If you want the pool to jump out pick one that is really bright or contrasting. With negative edge pools it can be good to blend the pool colour with the background as much as possible for a seamless effect.

5. Ask to see a pool- Once you have narrowed the colour down ask your builder if they have access to a pool in that colour. Quite often past clients will let you in to see their pool (they generally went through the same thing). This will hopefully hep confirm that you are on the right track.

6. Pick a colour you like- For me this is the most important thing. Over the years I have finished pools that are white, blue, green, red, purple, black and a combination of all of these. I think that most of them when done well look great. Keep in mind that you are the one who has to look at it every day.

Planning Stage (approx 4-6 weeks). From the day that you sign a building contract to the day excavators arrive on site there is generally 4-6 weeks. Within this time we need to obtain Engineering Plans, Working Drawings, Warranty Insurance and a Building Permit. Contractors and Staff are scheduled also. If a Planning Permit is requires an extra 6 weeks can be added.

Structure Stage (approx 3-4 weeks). The first thing that we do when we arrive on site is mark the pool location. This is done using pegs, strings and paint. Soon after this the excavator will arrive to dig the pool. Over the next week the drainage layer and in floor cleaning pipes will be installed. The second week of the structural stage will see steel frame and formwork being constructed. Once this is complete the final plumbing will be done and pipes run back to the equipment area. The plumbing will be tested for leaks and left under pressure. A final inspection and check will be undertaken before the concrete is sprayed in. On completion of the spray the formwork will be removed and site cleaned of any rubbish.

Curing Stage (4 weeks). Once the concrete is installed there can be no work done to the interior for 28 days, until it has cured. During this time it is a great opportunity to commence the landscaping including paving slabs, retaining walls, etc. We can also install the filtration and heating equipment.

Finishing Stage (approx 4-6 weeks). This is where all the finishes are done and the pool filled with water and commissioned. First the waterline tile is installed to set the pool level before the coping goes on. On completion of the paving the pool fence can be installed and inspected. Once this is done the pool interior can go in, followed by the water the next day. Once the pool is full the water will be chemically treated and equipment commissioned. Once complete the pool will be handed over and you will be shown how it all works.

• Pool Dimensions- There is no absolute length that a lap pool should be, I would suggest as long as practical on your property to get a good swim in without having to do too many turns. Common lengths for domestic lap pools are 12.5m, 15m, 20m and 25m. Of course one of the great advantages of concrete pools is that they can be constructed to any size to suit your requirements. We have many clients that build lap pools down to 8m long, however they are not as practical for swimming laps, more for looks and general play. As far as width goes a good comparison is that lap lanes at most commercial swim centres are 2.5m wide. This allows for two people lap swimming. We have built the from 1.5m to 4m wide. A common size in 2m-2.5m. In relation to the pool depth you need to consider whether you want to be able to dive in from one end, if so it should be around 2.0m deep. Many lap pools we build these days are 1.2m throughout. This depth allows a swimmer to tumble turn while also remaining cheaper to maintain and build due to less water and material volume. To summarise, think about how many swimmers will be in at any one time, how many strokes do you want before turning and do you need to dive in to start.
• Heating-when do you want to swim in the pool, will it be in the morning, afternoon, all year? This will affect how you heat the pool. If you are planning to swim laps every afternoon in summer and want to swim at around 25 degrees solar heating will be perfect for most people. If you want to swim all year round, or early mornings you will most likely need to consider some other type of heating- typically gas or a heat pump. Your builder will be able to help you choose.
• Pool Cover-if you are going to heat the pool all year round you will need to maintain the heat in the pool to conserve energy costs. This can be done in a number of ways. You may decide to build the pool indoor for a year round facility. This can be a great option, but also expensive and does not allow you to enjoy the outdoor vibe in summer. There are a number of retractable polycarbonate domes available that offer the best of both words. Another way is to install an outdoor cover. This can be a simple thermal blanket on a roller, or a fully automated Remco Swimroll that will retract in under the pool.
• Utility- lap pools are great for exercise, however are they going to fulfil all of the families need?  It can be great to add an offset are for general play, swim outs, spas and water features to satisfy everyone.
• Access- If pools are to be used for swimming laps the last thing you need are internal steps to swim into. Consider offset steps or niche wall steps with a stainless steel grab rail.

These are some of the things that i think you need to consider, do you have any other suggestions?

Over the next few weeks we will give our opinion on what to consider and look out for. We will talk about particular types of pools including:

• Lap Pools
• Courtyard and Plunge Pools
• Family Pools
• Negative Edge and Wet Deck Pools
• Pool and Spa Combinations

We will discuss design requirements from both an aesthetic and practical viewpoint as well as what systems should be installed as a minimum, plus what should be considered.

If there are any specific topics of interest that you would like covered please let us know and we will try to include them also.

Happy swimming.